Glossary
Wari: A pilgrimage (yatra) to a holy place of worship. In this context, it refers to the journey to Pandharpur.
Warkari: A devotee participating in the Wari.
Dindi: A group of warkaris traveling together.
Bhajan: A devotional song.
Abhanga: A devotional hymn dedicated to Vitthala.
Mauli: A term of endearment and respect.
video credits: Gauri Shetye
The Wari
What is the Pandharpur Wari?
(explained simply in less than 150 words)
The Pandharpur Wari is an annual pilgrimage where lakhs of devotees, known as warkaris, walk together to the temple town of Pandharpur in Maharashtra. They sing devotional songs called bhajans, play traditional instruments, and travel in groups called dindis. Notable saints like Sant Dnyaneshwar and Sant Tukaram are honored during this journey. The main wari starts from Alandi and Dehu, covering approximately 250 kilometers over 21 days. Some dindis stay in Pune for part of their journey. This tradition, dating back to the 12th century, emphasizes devotion, community, and equality.
Remembering Waari as a child:
Growing up in Maharashtra, the wari was a familiar sight. I saw the warkaris every year. Musically, I had heard most of the popular bhajans, though I didn't fully understand their deeper meaning. Yet, I valued them because the wari passing through Pune each year meant a welcome day off from school.
Unveiling a Cultural Treasure
Last week, I dove into this cultural tradition to learn more. I started by reading about the saints and the bhakti movement, which began in the 12th century. This movement valued equality, inclusivity, and social upliftment, with music and poetry at its heart. I was amazed to learn that this tradition has continued beautifully for over 700 years! It made me realize (even as a non-believer) how much I had missed appreciating it before.
The Scale of the Wari
To give you an idea of the wari's size, this year approximately 150-200 groups of warkaris, known as dindis, participated in Pune's Market Yard area alone. That totals around 25,000 devotees. While they are self-sufficient, managing the logistics can be challenging, but the entire city collaborates to support them with shelter, food, and all necessities.
The Music
Seeking the Bhajans
I wanted to experience the bhajans and abhangas firsthand. I had enquired the previous evening where I can see the bhajans. I walked into the Market Yard area near my house- I had imagined a stage with a fixed time and place for singing, but I quickly learned it was different.
The Atmosphere
The Market Yard was bustling with shops hosting warkaris, many playing live bhajans in the shops (gently amplified by speakers outside). Anyone could join in, and they were incredibly welcoming. I entered one shop and joined a diverse group of men and women singing together, led by someone in the center. It felt like a joyful jam session where musicians occasionally swapped instruments and everyone joined in spontaneously.
Similarities and Challenges
I noticed similarities to the jam sessions I usually attend. Despite technical glitches like a faulty mic or starting in the wrong key, they laughed it off and adjusted smoothly, keeping the music going. After 30 minutes, I moved to another group with its characteristic sound and set of bhajans.
Diverse Musical Experiences
In a dry fruits shop, I listened to a group singing bhajans accompanied by a harmonium, which intrigued me as a pianist. I observed for over an hour, noting the rhythms and melodies of the abhangas.
Joining the Bhajani Mandal
As time went by, people left and people joined. I found myself in the centre with the musicians. I asked if I could play the taal. They happily agreed, saying "Ho, ghya na Mauli." (Yes Mauli, take it) Playing with them brought me great joy. They took a break for lunch at 1 pm, and it was time for me to head home as well. Feeling grateful and inspired, I left with a heart full of happiness and a newfound love for this tradition.
If you want to know more:
There are plenty of resources available online. Here are a couple that I found fascinating:
1. Check out this Instagram profile of Shruti Veena Vishwanath, (click on her name to go to her Instagram page) a wonderful folk singer who's sharing informative reels daily about the wari and its history).
2. There's also a YouTube series in Marathi by BolBhidu that delves into the history of the wari and the bhakti revolution. You can watch it here: Click on this link
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